Vals, Switzerland: Thermal Baths, Spring Quiet, and a Bit of a Reset
Vals isn’t somewhere you randomly end up. It’s not on most people’s radar, and that’s exactly why it works. Tucked away in the Swiss Alps, this tiny village in Graubünden is for the traveler who’s tired of noise—online and offline—and just wants to breathe for a bit.
Spring here is that weird but lovely in-between season. There’s still snow up in the mountains, but crocuses are blooming in the valleys and you’ll hear water trickling everywhere as the ice melts. It’s peaceful without trying to be.
Most people come to Vals for one thing: the thermal spa. It’s minimalist, stone-built, and doesn’t need to impress you with flashy features. It just works. The quiet hits differently here. You sit in the warm water, look out over the Alps, and everything just slows down—your thoughts, your pulse, your expectations.
There’s not much else you have to do. Which, honestly, is the best part. Wake up when you want, walk through the village, eat something simple and good, and just let the days stretch a little longer. No planning, no pressure.
If you’ve been feeling overstimulated, tired of decision-making, or like your brain just needs a quieter environment to function—Vals is one of those places that helps.
Why Vals in Spring Feels Like a Well-Kept Secret
Vals isn’t somewhere you just stumble across. You have to decide to go there. It’s a conscious choice to step away from the usual—and honestly, that’s why it works. It doesn’t try to entertain you. It gives you space. Quiet. And room to actually feel like yourself again.
Spring in Vals has this in-between vibe that’s rare. You’re not in full winter anymore, but summer hasn’t kicked in either. What you get instead is stillness—just the sound of snowmelt running down the hills and the first signs of green pushing through.
You’ll want a sweater in the morning, but by afternoon you can sit outside with a tea and watch the mountains shift in the light. Most of the big ski crowds have moved on, which means it’s mostly locals and people who came here on purpose. Architects sketching. Writers reading. People walking without their phones out.
It’s not about taking a thousand photos or ticking off sights. It’s about slowing down enough to notice how good the air smells. How quiet your thoughts get after a couple of days here. How your body actually feels when you stop rushing it.
Therme Vals – What It’s Really Like (and Why People Keep Going Back)
Let’s be honest—CHF 80 for a spa sounds like a lot. But almost everyone who visits Therme Vals says the same thing: “It was worth every franc.”
Here’s why.
This isn’t some flashy resort where you’re greeted with prosecco and a photo wall. Therme Vals is calm in architectural form. It was designed by Peter Zumthor (an award-winning Swiss architect), using 60,000+ slabs of local quartzite, and it blends seamlessly into the mountain. You don’t come here to be seen—you come to disappear for a while.
The experience is simple but powerful. The thermal water flows from deep underground and stays at a constant 30–36°C (about 86–97°F), naturally rich in minerals like sulfur and iron. It’s not strongly scented or overwhelming—it’s just gently restorative.
Inside, you’ll move through a series of stone chambers with pools of different temperatures and lighting. Some are warm and quiet, some colder and invigorating. There’s even a cold plunge if you’re feeling bold. Many reviewers say the architecture itself becomes part of the therapy—the sound of water echoing off stone, the dim lighting, the silence. It feels sacred without trying too hard.
Outside, there's an open-air pool that faces the Alps. If you go in spring or late winter, steam will rise around you as snow still caps the mountains. It’s a surreal kind of beauty. Most visitors say they lost track of time just floating and watching the light shift across the peaks.
Important to know: phones aren’t allowed inside. So you’re not going to be scrolling Instagram between saunas. You’re actually going to rest. (Which, for many of us, feels rare and slightly radical.)
Go early. Doors usually open at 11:00 AM, and that’s your best bet for a quieter session. It does get busier midday, especially on weekends, so if you’re sensitive to noise or just want that almost-silent atmosphere, plan to be one of the first in.
You don’t need to stay at the attached hotel (7132 Hotel) to access the baths, but guests do get priority booking and slightly different time slots. If you're not staying there, book your day pass in advance online—walk-ins aren't always available, especially in spring and autumn when fewer people are skiing but still want to soak.
What to bring:
Swimsuit (required)
Towel and robe (can rent, but some reviews say they're pricey—bring your own if possible)
Water bottle (hydration is important—they don’t sell snacks or drinks inside)
A book, maybe—but honestly, you probably won’t even open it
Is It Really Worth It?
If you're expecting a flashy, amenity-heavy wellness resort, you might be underwhelmed. But if you’re craving stillness, solitude, and a sensory reset—this place delivers. People come here feeling anxious or overstimulated, and leave describing it as “emotional,” “healing,” “unlike any other spa.”
There are no massage jets. No hot tubs with music. Just heat, stone, silence, and time.
And in a world that never stops shouting for your attention, that might be the most luxurious thing of all.
Where to Stay in Vals:
There aren’t many places to stay in Vals, which is part of the charm. No big hotels or over-the-top concepts. Just a few well-designed guesthouses where you can actually rest. Here are two stays that get it right—especially if you're coming for the thermal baths and a few days of true downtime.
Brücke 49 Boutique Guesthouse
Location: Right in the village center
Brücke 49 is calm and understated in all the best ways. Scandinavian-style interiors with stone floors, natural materials, and just the right amount of detail. It’s small, adult-only, and feels more like a home than a hotel.
Mornings start with a homemade breakfast that feels intentional. You won’t find a buffet, but you will get fresh bread, local cheese, fruit, yogurt, and good coffee brought to your table.
If available, ask for Room 4—it has a deep tub and a mountain view that’s hard to beat. You’ll leave your shoes at the door and probably feel your shoulders drop the minute you arrive.
What to expect:
– Very quiet, adults-only stay
– Thoughtful design without being flashy
– Relaxed, home-like atmosphere
Pension Alpina
Location: Five-minute walk from the thermal spa
Alpina
Pension Alpina is a family-run guesthouse with basic rooms and really welcoming energy. It’s not about design here—it’s about comfort, views, and simplicity. Rooms are clean and functional, and many have balconies facing the mountains.
Breakfast is homemade and generous. Hot barley porridge with fruit, fresh bread, butter, jam, and strong coffee served in ceramic mugs.
If you can, book a room with a balcony. Sitting outside early in the morning while the mountain fog lifts is one of those things you’ll remember.
What to expect:
– Simple rooms, nothing fancy
– Great hospitality from the owners
– A quiet base close to everything
Slow Trails, Not Hikes
You don’t have to be a hiker to enjoy Vals. Most of the trails around the village are gentle, well-marked, and made for wandering—not pushing yourself.
Vals Valley Trail (Valser Talweg)
Length: 1 to 4 hours, depending on how far you go
Follow the river through open fields, meadows, and old barns. The smell of pine and wet stone is everywhere in spring. Bring a pastry from the village bakery and stop by the water—there are plenty of places to sit and just… be.
Selva Forest Loop
A shorter path that loops through forest just outside the village. This one is ideal on a foggy morning when visibility is low and you just want to walk through quiet woods. After rain, it smells like moss and woodsmoke.
Difficulty: Easy
Length: Choose your own pace (1–4 hours)
Follow the Valser Rhine River as it snakes through meadows dotted with wildflowers and abandoned alpine barns. In spring, everything smells like pine, earth, and thawing stone.
💡Tip: Pack a snack from the local bakery (yes, we’re getting to that) and find a sunny stone to sit on near the water. You may not see another person for an hour.
Local Food That’s Warm and Honest
Vals isn’t trying to impress you with plating. The food here is about warmth, tradition, and a sense of place.
Valser Gerstensuppe (Barley Soup)
You’ll find it at every Gasthaus in the village, and it’s different in each. Usually a mix of barley, root vegetables, and herbs—sometimes with ham, sometimes vegetarian. Either way, it’s hearty and perfect after a walk.
Spring Cheese Fondue
Some locals lighten up their fondue with fresh herbs like wild garlic and chives in the spring. If you see it on the menu, it’s worth trying—even if you thought fondue was just a winter thing. Head to Gasthaus Glenner (they have the best one!) The restaurant is located right on the main road. Cozy, family-run, wood-paneled. Ask for a window seat. If the herb salad is available, get it—it’s seasonal and foraged locally.
Backerei Peng Vals
Small bakery, very local. Excellent dark rye bread, buttery croissants, and seasonal fruit tarts. The owner usually knows when you'll be back for a second pastry before you do. Grab a warm roll in the morning and take it on your walk.
Getting to Vals: The Scenic, Slow Way
You can’t just hop off a major highway and arrive in Vals. It takes some effort, which fits the vibe. This is the kind of place that starts resetting your brain on the way there.
From Zurich:
Train to Chur (~1 hr 15 min)
Train to Ilanz (~30 min)
Postbus from Ilanz to Vals (~45 min)
That final leg is the most scenic. Winding roads, alpine cliffs, villages that look hand-painted. Sit on the right side of the bus for the best views. The drive is a bit curvy—if you get motion sick, bring ginger chews or something similar.
Is Vals Worth It?
Only if you're okay with doing... not much. With long mornings and no big plans. With sitting in warm water while the snow melts quietly around you. Vals isn’t a place for ticking off sights. It’s for slowing down, clearing your head, and maybe remembering what you actually enjoy when no one’s watching.
You don’t come here for action. You come to feel like yourself again.
And if that’s the kind of reset you’re craving right now? Vals is exactly where you should be.
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FAQs About Visiting Vals, Switzerland
Where is Vals located in Switzerland?
Vals is a small mountain village in the canton of Graubünden, eastern Switzerland. It's about 2.5–3 hours from Zurich by train and bus. It’s remote, but that’s the point.
How do I get to Vals from Zurich?
Take the train to Chur, transfer to Ilanz, then hop on the Postbus to Vals. The last stretch is curvy but beautiful—plan on around 3 hours total. If you’re driving, it’s about 2.5 hours from Zurich.
Is Therme Vals worth visiting?
Yes. Especially if you prefer quiet over flashy. It’s not a luxury spa with champagne flutes—it’s calm, architectural, and deeply relaxing. Go right when it opens for the most peaceful experience.
Can you visit Vals as a day trip?
Technically yes, but it’s not ideal. The travel time is long enough that you’ll only get a couple of hours before heading back. One or two nights is better—you’ll actually get to settle in and feel it.
What’s the best time to visit Vals?
Spring and autumn are amazing if you want fewer people and softer weather. The valley is still waking up in April, with crocus blooms and snowmelt everywhere. Summer’s great too, but more popular. Winter is stunning if you're into snow, but some hiking trails are closed.
Are there restaurants or cafes in Vals?
Yes, but not many. A few family-run Gasthauses, a cozy bakery, and some hotels that serve dinner. It’s more about simple, hearty meals than gourmet dining. Reservations are a good idea in peak weeks.
Is English spoken in Vals?
Mostly yes, especially at the hotels and Therme. But a few German or Romansh phrases go a long way—people appreciate it.
Do you need hiking experience to enjoy Vals?
Not at all. There are plenty of easy walking paths right from the village, like the Valser Talweg and Selva Forest Loop. It’s more about wandering than trekking.
Is Vals touristy?
Not in the way you’re thinking. There are visitors, especially on weekends, but it’s still a quiet place. No big tour groups, no flashy resorts. It’s a low-key, intentional kind of tourism.
Where should I stay in Vals?
If you want cozy and beautiful, Brücke 49 is the go-to. For something simpler and more budget-friendly, Pension Alpina is warm and welcoming with amazing views. There are also a few Airbnbs and guesthouses.
